Going Solo in Africa

I was in college then and old enough to take out my little sister Puchi, to the movies alone. One of my fondest memories ever and I believe for her as well was watching Lion King when it released in theatres then. We had never seen animation like that before, that too on the big screen and little Simba remained in my heart forever. So earlier this month when I visited Masai Mara, it was almost as if I became a child again and was actually immersed into the sets of The Lion King !

My solo adventure to Africa started off as I flew into Nairobi, staying there overnight and catching a small plane (about an 18 seater ) to Mara the next morning. The Nairobi Wilson airport where we flew from looked like out of a children’s toy set where dozens of small airplanes in various colours waited for takeoff. Soon we were soaring high on a very sunny Saturday morning and the views from the window were just gorgeous. Crossing the windmill farm on Ngong Hills (Ngong in Swahili means knuckles and once you saw the hills you knew why!), over the edges of the rift valley , flying over the undulating green plateau like landscape and within an hour, we would touch down into the Keekorok airstrip , and enter the Masai Mara National Reserve. We were just a degree or so below the equator and I somehow was under the impression that it would be awfully hot and sweaty. And even though the sun was blazing bright against a clear blue sky , it’s the breath of fresh air , literally in every sense that surprises you totally. A cool breeze, crisp and young fills your city lungs with the freshness that it seems to have been missing so badly.

I was received by my safari jeep driver cum guide Nicolas who would be my constant companion for the next five days, with a greeting of Jambo and Karibu (Swahili for Hello and Welcome). Just as we start driving into the park and towards Olive Bush Camp where I would be staying, I have my first sighting of a solitary elephant bull regal with his tusks and happily grazing away in the middle of nowhere. Soon after, a huge herd of elephants with all sizes of children following the matriarch crossed right ahead of us.  There could be no better way to start this wild adventure than the silhouette of these gentle , majestic creatures against the bright blue sky flooded with sunshine  walking gracefully at their own pace, the true inhabitants of the earth. 

Driving into Olive is such an experience because you’re driving through the plains and arrive at an area full of the typical bushy trees dotting the landscape. You start going down that path and lo and behold you’re actually at the camp – it is so well camouflaged into the surroundings. The camp is an unfenced property located on the banks of the Mara River which is also home to a large number of hippos and their calls would be familiar sound to the ears over the next few days and nights. Just before we entered the camp though, there would be the biggest surprise waiting for me in one of the bushes on the way – lying in its shade was a lioness, my first sighting of the trip and her cub. I was simply overjoyed, and felt like my entire trip was worth it to just see mom and baby cuddling this way at such close proximity! Little did I know then, that I would see them again several times over the next few days and I would name this baby Charlie and his mother Nala and that I would completely and totally fall in love with them over time.

After a quick lunch and resting a bit, we left on our first game drive that afternoon. What started off as a bright, sunny and slightly hot day quickly changed into a cloudy afternoon and the grey clouds looming across the vast expanse of land with the impalas all huddled together was a sight to see. Very soon it started raining, first a little bit and then really hard, so we had to close the top roof of the jeep and the window as I was getting quite drenched. But more importantly the temperature had dropped probably a full ten degrees or more thanks to the wind and I wasn’t quite prepared for such a change. While I was worrying about feeling cold, the rain slowly reduced to a drizzle and the clouds were clearing up and the grass was a green that no colour palette can probably cover, especially against the fading light of the evening. Suddenly I was jumping with joy and wonder like a child watching a magic trick, as the sky was glowing with a full rainbow across the vast expanse of land. Chasing rainbows in the savannah for the next hour or so felt like a dream and I tried my best to capture the magic on film. It was mesmerizing. 

I was also introduced to the Topi, also known as the yellow socks and blue jeans guy. The topi were fascinating in the way they seemed to take grazing so seriously , or they would stand on top of a mound looking at the world as if in deep contemplation on life. We saw two topi fighting and the tock tock of their horns against one another was the only sound we could hear in the stillness all around. The day would end with another big sighting, that of a leopard mum stalking and trying to hunt a hyena around the bushes. By now the sky had settled into a dazzling pink against the darkening end of the day and the leopard with its distinct spots against this breathtaking backdrop, walking regally along the road was surreal. 

Our early morning safaris would start at 6AM. A thoughtful wakeup call at 5:15am with a hot cup of black tea and I was up and ready for the day’s adventure. Leaving at 6AM meant that it would be quite dark still and one morning just as we were coming out of the camp , we noticed a huge patch of grey against the trees – a big herd of elephants merging with the darkness of the  early morning was a sight to behold. Nicolas would usually have a plan of which direction he would be taking me , but the plan sometimes would totally change based on the updates he would get on radio or on their group chat updates about some action happening in some other direction. In the rush to get to where would want to be, it would be difficult to stop and enjoy the breathtaking sunrise and I would watch through the window or standing with my head out of the roof top just breathing it in. The outline of the solitary trees in the landscape against a painted sky in pink and orange were picture postcard perfect with a certain air of mystery around them. 

My fondest memories of the early morning drives were of course spending uninterrupted time with Charlie and Nala. Charlie would be at his playful best in the hours of dawn with his mum Nala and his other aunts in the pride. Crouching behind a rock or within the grass and pouncing on his Mum , or playing with Nala’s tail, her face, jumping around her like the little monkey he is. Every moment was so precious and just a little bigger , wilder version of the many kittens I’ve fostered for years back home. And hearing Nala’s soft grunt to call out to Charlie while he came skipping right back to her was simply priceless. Their golden fur bathed in the glow of the early morning sun looked ethereal and I simply couldn’t get enough of them. It took every ounce of will power that I had to hold me back from getting down from the jeep and just going and cuddling them ! I do believe that towards the end, they knew me and both Nala and Charlie spoke to me, looking straight into my eyes as I would be taking pictures or just enjoy being in their almost divine presence.

Some mornings were unusually filled with a lot of action and we would rush to these spots as soon as we could. The “as soon as we could” sounds much easier than in reality where dirt tracks were slushy and muddy and the rivulets that we would be crossing were full of water thanks to the rains of the past couple of days and weeks. I had new found respect for the design and engineering of the four wheel drive jeeps that we were using, sometimes it was unbelievable how we made it through the roads or the river crossings. 

All the rolling around within the jeep was totally worth it once we reached the spot of the action of course ! A complete pride of lions feasting on a giraffe kill which was very unusual as the giraffe’s kick would usually kill a lion unless the giraffe had died a natural death or had become too old to fight , we wouldn’t know exactly what happened. But the sight of the entire pride relishing their kill , the lionesses with their cubs of all sizes first while the males would be resting in the bushes. The cubs were tiny compared to the huge giraffe and they were playing all over it as if it was a jungle gym, remembering to eat once in a while. All of a sudden, I saw two cubs tearing off the tail taking it away in the grass playing tug of war with it. With the lionesses having their share and going off to rest a while, the big male made his royal entrance, wearing his royalty with a certain lightness and laziness that only he can carry off with such elan ! The lioness tried to nuzzle up against him, in the mood for love, but he was only in the mood for food. After a lip smacking meal, he walked away back to the shade of the bushes, but not before he came up to my jeep and looked straight into my eyes as if saying Hello ! 

We would typically have a picnic breakfast mid morning in certain designated spots where we could get down from the car. The views were spectacular, either the rolling savannah grasslands all around with a couple of antelopes grazing in the distance , or it would be on some river bank with the view of the flowing river , boulders along the sides and the lush green trees lining the banks. A crocodile here, a couple of hippos swimming there , birds chirping everywhere and a certain peace and calm that mornings immersed in the depth of such unspoilt natural beauty can bring. The birds of the savannah are just too many to even start describing - the metallic blue of the superb sterling, or the bright yellow of the weaver bird, the shiny black and red headed swallows in flight, diving into the grass, circling round and round overhead with such boundless joy that you felt like flying away with them to experience such freedom ! On one such morning , we also saw a huge crocodile eating up a baby hippo, thrashing it around in his mouth while the many  mud fish swimming around him taking advantage of the kill as well. Quite a scene that was ! 

Lunch time was back at the camp out in the verandah area or on the elevated river bank. A delicious meal of salad followed by some grilled fish or meat would be enough to allow me to settle down for a quick nap or I would laze around reading a book or sending pictures of the morning back home. The afternoons were idyllic in every possible way and a perfect break before the evening game drive. While chatting with my friends, they were concerned on the status of my return tickets and were quite certain that I wouldn't be coming back. But I was also missing my human cub at home , so that was not an option right now :)

The afternoon to evening time would usually be slow especially if it was quite sunny , all the animals kind of slowing down in the heat. But it was wonderful just driving around for miles , standing in the jeep , the wind in my face and drinking in the scenery all around. Watching the rolling grasslands changing colour with the position of the sun from a beautiful golden hue to shades of green with a reddish tip at certain times of the day was hypnotizing. The landscape dotted with the black irregular shapes of the termite mounds here and there. A solitary tree standing suddenly in the middle of nowhere, under the vast expanse of the sky mesmerizing with myriad hues that reflect on the earth and the landscape just so expansive that the zoom of our devices can’t match up but enables our hearts  to open up so wide to accept all the beauty mother earth has to offer and filling it with love. A dear friend on seeing the picture of the tree wrote back "It is so complete, Just like you. Doesn't need anyone to hold on to , to be supported. Standing tall, It's enough on it's own. While it stands alone, it gives shade to all others beneath it. This is you". This is the most beautiful compliment I have got in a long time .. the days with myself surrounded by such magnificent beauty all around was no less than a form of meditation and self realization and connect that would be difficult in the madness of our daily lives.

With the evening setting in and the sun about to set, we would encounter a pride of lions sleeping in the middle of the tall grass, lazing around against each other, getting up to drink some water from the puddles here and there, or just to cuddle and lick one another. Pure bliss. On one such evening we were especially lucky to witness the leopard Bahati (the tent  I was staying in was named after her) hunting down an impala. She was crouching behind the tall grass while the impalas were on the other side of the road. As soon as they crossed, she pounced on her target and brought her down, then dragged her all the way into the bushes to where her cubs were. The scene was enthralling down to the last bit and her speed, her strength and her beauty were just out of this world. 

We would also see many giraffes popping out their heads from behind some trees far away, or sometimes even grazing close enough and I had several heart to heart conversations with them as they listed to me patiently about my views on life and gave me their perfect piece of advice - Hakuna Matata ! There weren’t too many zebras around since most had left along with the wildebeest during the migration but we did drive quite a long way to the other side of the reserve and saw some. Their dazzling black and white looked spectacular against the green grass and I couldn’t help but think that designers have tried to fashion this  design onto everything forever, but nothing can match up to the original beauty of these fellas. Some of my favourite moments were trying to catch the attention of the Thomson gazelles and trying to capture them on film as they stood still looking directly into your eyes but just for the slightest moment before they would quickly run away. The second fastest creatures on the earth, so graceful in every movement. Against the golden light of the evening , they looked picture perfect. 

The night before I left for my balloon safari , it rained like crazy and I honestly thought my tent would just tear up and fly away ! But survive the night I did , and managed to leave by 4:30AM , driving to the location for take off. The drive was as adventurous as it could get. Only my driver Johnson knows how he managed to find roads in the pitch dark of the early morning , that too the roads completely slushy from the night rains. We saw several owls in the middle of the road waiting for easy prey , a couple of hyenas’ eyes shining bright in the dark while  a fox dashing here and there, the scrub hares jumped to and fro from the bushes all around. 

The balloon safari was an unforgettable experience, floating through the clouds at peace with the world complete with the views of wildlife below , gazelles and topis running around in the fields below , completely carefree and full of joy , ostriches pecking around , the hyenas going about their business too while the warthogs dashing here and their being their silly selves, hippos frolicking in the river, a sudden sighting of a baby crocodile swimming along the river and the views of the most exotic cranes and vultures and other birds dotting the canopied greens that we were floating above. Watching the sunrise from the balloon while the sky changed colours and the dreamy clouds around you,  was just so beautiful that I wanted to capture the moment in my heart forever. It was a morning one with nature and unbridled happiness that only nature can bring to the soul.  The safari ended with a sumptuous breakfast in the middle of nowhere complete with new friends made on the ride  and the clinking of champagne glasses in the backdrop of the chirping birds and sound of cicadas and crickets everywhere around. While I agree, money can’t buy happiness, there are certainly some exceptions such as a morning like this ;)

It was soon time to leave, I couldn’t believe that my five days were over ! But there was a surprise for me on the day we were driving out from the reserve – the Rongai pride of almost fifteen lions or more had a cub that was even smaller than Charlie walking sometimes behind, sometimes along side his mother – I named him Scruffy. He was tiny and if his mother went ahead a bit too much, he would protest and call out with a distinct sound between a tiny roar ending up as a meow ! He was the cutest guy ever and I so wish I could pick him up and give him a big cuddle ! 

A water buck stood still in front of me in the middle of the tall grass as we drove by, she looked like a watercolour painting come to life – she looked into my eyes as if to say good bye. The night before I left, the Masai staff at the camp surprised me with a farewell tribal song and cake cutting , I was so emotional that I felt tears streaming down my face completely involuntarily. Though I couldn’t understand the words or the meaning , the music and their voices somehow stirred my soul and touched me deep inside. I left a piece of my heart with Charlie and Nala and the endless colour and beauty and sounds of the birds and butterflies flying around with such joy in the Savannah grasslands. I know, and I know that they all know as well – that I will come back …

 

Delhi Diaries

It was almost with childlike excitement that I was waiting for our Delhi trip. Early in March, I received an invitation to attend the BRICS award ceremony for women achievers and although that would be exciting , the immediate prospect of adding a couple of days and turning it into a vacation with the boys seemed so perfect ! Delhi has forever been on my to visit list , having been a history buff since my childhood and reading about the many layers of history that the city has to offer. However added to it were the innumerable movies pictured on Delhi, so many books centred in the capital , the endless travel shows and articles on Delhi food and also my many many friends from Delhi made the city closer to my heart than I ever imagined ! Somehow the right time had not come before this but there was no stopping now. 

The Radisson Blu Marina at CP

We reached Delhi on a Sunday afternoon and were welcomed by the almost summer heat at a modest 38C only. This would go up a few degrees over the next week or so and by the time i was ready to come back, it had touched almost a scorching 44C , an orange alert in the city.  We chose to stay at Connaught Place Radisson Blu Marina Hotel.  Almost every place that we wanted to visit was a maximum of 25 to 30 minutes away. The hotel was a heritage boutique hotel , not necessarily the best of facilities but the location really made up for everything !

India Gate at sunset

change of guard ceremony at the War Memorial

Our Delhi sojourn started off that evening itself with a visit to the famed India Gate. Having seen it on television , in endless movies probably hundreds of times throughout my lifetime, it was quite a feeling to finally stand facing it in reality ! What hits you about Delhi and this I was going to witness within the next couple of days is really the vastness of each of the monuments , the sprawling grounds all around maintained impeccably , the feel of a capital city for sure . A lot of the beauty around was messed up due to the barricades of the Central Vista work that was ongoing. However watching the silhouette of the India Gate in the background of the setting sun , an orange sky at sunset and the change of Guard near the War memorial was an experience to remember. 

For dinner and a stroll we headed over to Khan Market , the famed Khan Market - supposed to be one of the most expensive shopping places in the world ! I could of course totally live here with some , rather all of my favourite shops lining the streets, the Nicobars, Anokhis, Amrapalis , Fab India’s all lined up with their ultra uber and pretty fares. But what really caught my fancy were the absolutely awesome bookshops ! Hole in the wall book shops with books overflowing every nook and cranny that you could find, literally stumbling over books as you walked inside. Books in every size and shape, old editions that were otherwise not to be found , absolutely swanky new ones as well.  Kolkata being “my” city, this was not something I had quite expected, to be bowled over by bookshops but here I was unable to move out of the shop , there was so much to explore and unfortunately so little I could carry back ! This was not only in Khan Market, but also sprawled across CP as well. 

Bara Darwaza at Purana Qila

The trees, oh the trees ! 

The next morning we started off by a visit to Purana Qila. Entering through the Bara Darwaza , we were welcomed into the vastness of the fort inside including its sprawling grounds and gardens full of the most beautiful , green, leafy and huge trees offering shade from the harsh sun. The archaeological museum hosted within the fort was quite nice giving quite a good perspective of the various layers of history of the Old Fort as well as Purani Delhi and what we know as Delhi today. Starting from the days of Indraprastha to Humayun, Sher Shah , the place was steeped in history to say the least. Of course the Humayun Darwaza, the Sher Mandal where Humayun was said to have fallen to his death were all beautiful .. but as I strolled to the back, I was met with the stark beauty of the Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque. The single domed structure built by Sher Shah is a fantastic example of pre Mughal architecture. This was my first view of red, white and slate coloured marble used for the calligraphic inscriptions which blew my mind. I would see more of these throughout the trip at Jama Masjid, the Jamila Qamila at the Mehrauli Park and of course at the Qutab complex. 

Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque

Sher Mandal

But the first view is always special as was this. The place seemed so very peaceful , the beauty of the structure against the blue sunny sky flanked by the grand trees all around. I later read somewhere that there is a marble slab within the mosque where the inscription reads “As long as there are people on the earth, may this edifice be frequented and people be happy and cheerful in it”.  In retrospect, that is exactly the feeling I got from the place.

Humayun's Tomb

Later in the day we visited the very famous, the very beautiful Humayun’s tomb. Humayun’s Tomb is the first of the grand mausoleums that were to be synonymous with Mughal Architecture , reaching its zenith with the Taj Mahal close to a century later. The contrast of the white marble dome standing over the red sandstone structure and the understated beauty of building with the char-baghs all around is a perfect reflection of the aesthetics that the Mughals had. Persian and Indian craftsmenship coming together to create the beauty of these structures can be seen in the many artefacts within these sites. Not to mention the use of ornate jharokas inside the mausoleums as I had also noticed in the Kuhna Masjid at Purana Qila. We were most fortunate to have a dear friend’s friend who is working with the Aga Khan Foundation to show us around and explain the nuances of architecture and design in each structure. The romance of tracing Akbar's footsteps while doing so was incomparable !  

We spent the rest of the evening in the marvellously restored Sundar Nursery area adjacent to Humayun;s Tomb. Offering endless photo opportunities in the rose gardens, the water fountain area, peacocks appearing out of nowhere , the old tomb structures standing majestic in the midst of greenery .. I was quite jealous of Delhites having such a glorious and open lung space newly rejuvenated and so well maintained to come out for their morning or evening strolls. 

Sunder Nursery area

Tuesday morning saw us venturing out towards the Red Fort. Having witnessed the tricolour being hoisted from the Lahori Gate of the Lal Qila innumerable times , pictures of it across all our textbooks since childhood and now in my childrens’ books, it was such an overwhelming feeling to stand in front of the fort finally ! Emperor Shah Jahan commissioned building of this fort when he moved his capital from Agra to Delhi and the fort has stood testimony to centuries of history unfolding within its walls. To imagine Nehru unfurling our tricolour on 15th August 1947 from the Lahori Gate gave me goosebumps and I sung our National Anthem silently in my head as I walked around !The stunning beauty formed by the combination of Persian palace architecture with Indian traditions, the red sandstone walls contrasted by the white marble art work, some of the structures inside are nothing but poetry in stone. 

Posing in the Red Fort

To imagine the emperor sitting in the Sawan or Bhado Mahal watching the rains from heaven bringing new life to the lush gardens , composing poetry, sitting in the Diwan’e i Aam or Khaas giving audience to his subjects , the absolute beauty of the Moti Masjid against the cloudless blue sky blazing white ,surrounded by the lush greenery all around witness to the many events that are now nothing but text in our history books brings back that sense of wonder. The thought that we are nothing but small specks in the wheel of time. 

No matter how powerful, how great an emperor or king you are , we are all reduced to dust and nothingness .. what remains is what stories you gave to the world , about your kindness or your hatred and how you choose the world to remember you for generations after, everything else is so fragile and so temporary ! We took a rickshaw and went to Chandni Chowk in search of Haveli Dharampura where we would have our lunch. A splendid fare of butter chicken ,naan, the most refreshing shikanji ever and the best kesar kulfi I have had ever ! 

Haveli Dharampura

Chandni Chowk darwazas

The narrow alleyways are deceptive to what lies behind the doors lining them - huge, rich , ornate and beautiful havelis - many of which have been restored, some lying neglected in their faded glory - but again you can feel centuries of history steeped in each turn of the pathways, rich merchants selling their wares .. years of bargaining for the best value for money. We could not spend as much time as I would have liked shopping through these lanes - but will definitely come back at a better time when the sun is not blazing hot down your back ! The view from atop the haveli was Delhi 6 for you and the Jama Masjid standing tall not too far away , a mish mash of houses so close to each other that you could jump from one terrace to your neighbours - countless movies have been shot in this backdrop and it seemed oh so familiar in reality.

Jama Masjid

The Jama Masjid was a must visit of course. It being the month of Ramadan, it was a little crowded but the beauty of the structure no matter how many times you’ve seen it in pictures is absolutely mesmerising as is the trance like atmosphere of faith within.

Qutb Minar

No tourist can leave Delhi without visiting the world famous Qutb Minar of course and we were there on Wednesday morning. This is the tallest brick minaret in the world and a victory tower built on the site of Delhi’s oldest fortified city the Lal Kot built by the Rajput Tomars. The beauty in the symmetry of the tower , the elaborate decoration of the tower with inscriptions and geometric patterns is a feast for the eyes. Not only the monument itself , but the surrounding complex with several other historically significant structures each beautiful in its own right. The perfect symmetry of the arches , the Alai Darwaza and stunning marble work on its ceiling was something I could spend hours and hours marvelling at. No wonder this is one of the most visited tourist spots in Delhi. At each of these places, we did hire guides and the place came to life with their descriptions and stories of yester years.  We strolled into the Mehrauli Archaeological park soon after. The grounds being vast,  and the sun at a scorching 42C , we did not see too much except the Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb. With not too many people visiting this area, the desolate atmosphere was an experience in itself, sitting in the shade of the tree canopy in the ground,  viewing one more gorgeous mosque architecture, wondering about the possible legend of the love story played out in these parts. 

Jamila Kamila Tomb and Mosque

One felt like sitting here and pondering about life for hours if not more.  That evening we were adventurous enough to wander into the narrow lanes that took us to the original and famous Karims where we had our fill of barra kababs and decadent naans to go with it. 

The Jama Masjid lit up against the midnight blue was a spectacle to behold in itself. I also managed a short shopping sojourn at the Shankar Market near CP as recommended by a friend and the range of dress materials and chikan kurtas from SEWA sent me into a tizzy ! 

We made our way through Delhi mostly by autos, once or twice by the most efficient metro network and of course an Uber here and there when we went to slightly far off distances such as Gurgaon to visit a friend. But what made our couple of days in Delhi so much more livelier and colourful were my endless conversations with the autowallahs . Every topic under the sun starting from the political scene in the country to communal harmony or discord created by powerful entities but affecting the lives of the ordinary. The status of such folks through the pandemic , how rising petrol and diesel prices were killing , and yet how they loved this city that was theirs. The philosophy of everything , of love, sights to behold and of course the customary must visit to the government sponsored Delhi Haats which would offer them a commission. 

Lodhi Gardens

The last day took us to Lodhi Gardens - more spectacular tombs in the middle of lush green and ornate gardens. So many open spaces for young couples to express their love for one another or just friends to hang out and talk their hearts out without paying a hefty price for the same. 

This was  sheer luxury in a city bursting at the seams with over population, to have these beautiful open spaces which helped your mind broaden into horizons far beyond the narrowness of the otherwise difficult daily lives one had to endure. And stark contrast to the lives in the shanties of course were the absolutely sprawling bungalows in Lutyens Delhi - the huge wide roads, white bungalows in the midst of your own Lodhi Gardens so to say barricaded by strong gates with severe security guarding them. 

We could not leave Delhi without visiting Raj Ghat and paying our silent tribute to Gandhiji , and couldn’t help but wonder if today’s atmosphere in the country shadowed by hate is what he really envisioned. Alas that topic rests for another day.  A visit to the Lotus Temple was a must as well ,the only other architecture similar to the Sydney Opera House - completely done in marble and such a beauty standing in the middle of nowhere with people from all faiths and religion sitting in the cool interiors of the temple lost in their own meditative thoughts. 

We also visited the National Museum and stopped over at the Ugra Sen ki Baoli taking many shots at this picturesque step well ideal for film makers as a backdrop again. 

And of course we wandered through the alleys of Hauz Khas , a collection of old Islamic architecture dotting the banks of the reservoir. Now home to several quirky little cafes,  art houses and shops selling old posters from days gone by as well as very old maps and antiques - if one had the eye, you could find something pretty unique in these tiny shops. 

Nizamuddin Dargah

On Friday evening I managed a solo visit to the Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah. I met with one of the priests and was extremely fortunate enough to enter the mosque within and offer my prayers along side some other old uncles. Since it was the month of Ramadan, there was no Qawali ongoing but I was promised an audience the next time I visited the city. The beauty of the dargah, the festive spirit with the lights and everyone sitting around breaking their fast was an experience to savour such as none other. I also visited the Guru Bangla Sahib on Sunday morning , walked around the sacred water body within , had the famed prashad and was overcome with a sense of peace and gratitude for all that life had to offer. Once outside, I shared a modest breakfast of the road side piping hot chai and kachori along with my auto driver who was patiently waiting for me. 

I can’t believe that our short trip to Delhi was over. The days blurred into one another hopping from one historical site to the other punctuated by some of the most delicious meals, interspersed with meeting friends I had been meaning to meet forever, with a bit of shopping here and there and endless photo ops. The Delhi heat couldn't dampen our spirits at all and the warmth of the people who took us around, showed us their city added to our delight. I was absolutely not let down on my expectations from my long awaited visit to the capital city and can’t wait to visit again !